We have reached the limit of our northern adventure, and today we first head west to the Atlantic Ocean and then directly south, following the coastline to Cape Cross and onwards to Spitzkoppe.
We set off through more beautiful scenery and passing many weird and wonderful species of vegetation that this area is famous for. In particular, we will see Namibia’s National plant, the wonderful and endemic Welwitschia Mirabilis. This species is, in fact, a dwarf tree and is found only in Namibia and southern Angola. The Welwitschia is a drought-resistant superstar and almost as old as the landscape itself. Some specimens are known to be over 1,500 years old.
We enter the Skeleton Coast National Park through the northern Springbokwasser Gate, and soon afterwards, we meet the chilly Atlantic Ocean. It is easy to see why this barren seaboard is called the Skeleton Coast, with its forbidding mountains and barren beaches. The wind, the waves and the huge fog banks all conspire to push ships onto the beach. The countless mariners who, in olden times, found themselves shipwrecked here faced the stark prospect of no fresh water, no food, no rescue and a slow death by exposure. Their Shipmates who went down with their ship were thought to be the lucky ones. There are some remnants of human activity along our road today. In the early 1960s, two pioneering entrepreneurs, Jack Scott and Ben du Preez, were convinced that both oil and diamonds would be discovered along the Skeleton Coast and that this was their chance at fame and fortune. At great expense, a massive drilling rig was set up and operated, and a borehole of 1,700 meters was drilled before they finally admitted there was no oil.
Not daunted and encouraged by reports of huge diamonds at Cape Cross, the same pair constructed a diamond mine and processing plant at Toscanini, close to where their abandoned oil rig was already rusting away. Some diamonds were ‘found’, but there was great suspicion that the diamond processor had been ‘seeded’ with diamonds from elsewhere. A ploy to keep the investors happy for a little bit longer. Both enterprises ended in failure, but we will pass by Toscanini, and we can stop and have a look at the now collapsed oil drilling machine.
Exiting the park at the Ugab River crossing with its Instagram-worthy iconic gates, we continue onto one of the largest seal colonies in the world. Nobody knows exactly why the seals chose Cape Cross as their home, but there must be a good reason, as there are usually upwards of 100,000 seals basking on the rocks or swimming just off the beach. These Cape fur seals are found only in South Africa, Namibia and Angola and are near endemic to Namibia. Cape Cross is the largest Cape fur seal colony in the world, but there are many smaller colonies also to be found on the Namibian beaches, and the Namibian Skeleton Coast hosts by far the majority of the world’s population. Cape Cross is an outstanding sight, and a challenge for your nose, the smelliest stop on our safari.
Cape Cross takes its name from the stone crosses that proudly sit close to the seal colony. The first cross to be erected here was done so on the orders of the Portuguese mariner Diogo Cão in 1485. In those days, the cross would have been called a ‘Padrao’, and the location was thus named Cabo do Padrao or Cape Cross. The original cross is in a museum in Germany, and the two crosses visible today are replicas, erected respectively by the German government and the monuments council of South Africa. The concrete discs set around the two replica crosses are, in fact, set out to represent the stars of the Southern Cross. A tribute to the navigational skills of the tough breed of men who made the first voyages of discovery. Diogo Cão never made it home to Portugal from this voyage, and his death is shrouded in mystery.
We continue back inland to the magnificent Spitzkoppe Mountain. These granite mountains stand out against the gravel plains and are renowned for stunning sunsets and sunrises, as well as for night photography. After setting up camp, we go into the mountains for sunset before returning to camp for dinner.