This morning, we will again be collected from our accommodation at a predetermined time for our excursion to Sandwich Harbour. We will travel south along the coastal road, beyond Walvis Bay and into the desert to experience one of the more adventurous activities available in the Namib – a journey through
the dunes and along the beach to Sandwich Harbour. Sandwich also wears the badge of Membership to the Ramsar Convention and is located about 50 km south of the port town. Appearing on Portuguese maritime charts as far back as the 15th century, Sandwich Harbour was first called Port d’Ihelo, and it was later that the name Sandwich was coined. The Sandwich Islands were noted on a chart produced by the India Company, with information supplied by a British survey vessel working in the area around 1785. The survey vessel was called The Sandwich.
Sandwich Harbour once boasted an abundance of fresh water, with artesian springs of sweet water bubbling up from under the dunes and onto the beach, and into the Sandwich Harbour lagoon. So abundant was this water that the lagoon often contained more freshwater than saltwater. The source of this liquid gift was the Kuiseb River Delta, where underground water still flowed, even during times of drought. Freshwater made this isolated harbour habitable and over the centuries, mankind has tried valiantly to commercialise the area. Whaling was what first caught the eyes of the early prospectors, closely followed by guano. Guano is today mainly used as a fertiliser, but in the 16th century, it was a vital ingredient of gunpowder and was highly valued. Commercial fishing was popular, diamond prospecting was feverish, and there was even an abattoir and meat canning factory established in 1887.
Today, there is virtually nothing left of this once hive of activity. In more recent times, the freshwater supply has dramatically decreased, and almost all signs of past human endeavour have been either washed into the sea or buried under the ever-shifting sands, leaving Sandwich Harbour pristine and naturally beautiful for our visit.
To get there, though, is another story. This excursion could have been referred to as a road trip, that is, if there was a road! Access to Sandwich is limited, and it’s all action. From Walvis Bay, we head south, over, around and through the Kuiseb River Delta until we reach the high dunes of the coastal
dune sea. From the dune belt, depending on the local conditions (on the day), we will either go over the dunes, or we will head for the beach and follow the coast, driving only meters from the waves.
For the final 8 km of distance, there is only one way to go. We will join a narrow strip of beach that runs right between the sheer towering dunes on one side and the angry, snatching Atlantic on the other. This mere ribbon of beach is the only way in, and vehicles are sometimes washed with saltwater as they make
their way. Timing is essential as this beach access is closed off by the breakers at high tide. There is still a lagoon to see at Sandwich, although the entrance is mostly silted up, and we can imagine how the tall ships of another age must have looked as they snubbed at their anchorage. The best views are
from the top of the high dunes, but it is also highly recommended to take a walk along the lagoon shore and to push your toes into the soft, wet sand.
On our return trip, after once again braving the ocean gauntlet and depending on local conditions on the day, we will usually take a thrilling drive up and over some of the highest dunes in Namibia. The term is ‘roller coasting the dunes,’ our own natural theme park in the Namib Desert.
Returning to Swakopmund in the afternoon with time to spare for other activities, if you would like to participate.
The next section of this safari will be guided, and your guide will collect you tomorrow at 11h00 and brief you about the rest of the safari.
Dinner tonight is for your own account.